3D Printing Forum

The bolt holes are also drilled through the perf board, so either it was something they placed on it while machining, or they mean for the bolts to pass through it somewhere. Pictures later today when I start to build.

I bought a few new 3DP-11s. Interestingly, they have upgraded nearly all the plastic parts to injection molded pieces (both x and y brackets are now injection molded) with the fan duct being the only 3D printed pieces in the kit. Something that wasn't in my previous 3DP-11ATL is a piece of perf boar...

You just need to modify the steps definition. Lead screws should be ~398.

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 398, 94.496214 }

1. Make sure you have the LCD hooked up properly.
2. The LCD isn't critical for the function. Plug into a PC to see if you can connect and use slicing software to see if you still have motor controls (jogging, homing, etc.)
3. Your LCD and/or controller may be bad. Replace them.

How is four points overconstrained AND prone to wobbling? That doesn't make sense to me. Assuming that drawer slide effect references one side binding the other side during movement, that seems possible, but not likely if it is setup correctly. The bearings do provide some tolerance as well. Again, ...

I went ahead and added a second pillow block bearing on the right side. Drastic improvement in the amount of play in the carriage. I can now use somewhat beefier bed springs with essentially no re-leveling.

Pretty much any glass will do. You can put tape on glass, but I find that the great advantage of glass is that it is easier to get prints off of it than the tape.You also can just take the glass off to remove prints, instead of trying to pry things off the build plate which certainly is not good for...

I ditched auto-level pretty early on. It is a poor design with the sensor so far away from the nozzle. It is much easier to get good prints using a piece of glass and leveling every 5-10 prints.

What are you printing on? Tape? Nearly all of the build plates are warped. Try printing towards the front or back instead of the center and see if it makes a difference. Your slicer should also be able to reduce the first layer height to improve first layer adhesion.

I'd think you'd want it to be more parallel to the build plate so you can see the filament exiting the nozzle. Looks like it is printing too fast!

Is there any particular reason why some (all?) of the i3 models have two linear bearings on one side of the Y-carriage and only one on the other? Using a glass plate, I am seeing slop in the bearing due at least in part to the central pivot of the single bearing on the right side of the carriage. Th...

GrueMaster wrote:Does the carriage move freely when the system is off? Could the belt be binding on the right side bearing?

I'd considered that as well, but after watching the video carefully, it looks like the stepper really is oscillating back and forth in some way.

What slicer are you using? Most slicers have the ability to send G-code from a terminal.

Yeah, you gotta pull the cover off of the board and take a look around. This could be as simple as reseating the JST connector that is in there. Turn off the power, pull out the 4 M3 bolts and have a look.

First guess: bad stepper driver in control board. This did work correctly at some point, right?