3D Printing Forum

Have you tried reprinting a known good print from your SD card? Have you tried printing from USB? You said your bed doesn't heat up. Have you tried to heat the bed manually from the controller menu (Prepare->Preheat PLA->Preheat PLA Bed)? How does the wiring on the bed look? Do you have the highly r...

Likely works similar to Octoprint in that the print is sent from the device to the printer. If you print from SD, some printers can resume directly from their control menu (if enabled in firmware). I have had to resume a print once from Octoprint, and I was able to do so by editing the gcode file, d...

These are the same batteries used in most UPS power supplies. A small UPS would hold it for ~3-4 hours (maybe longer). The hard part would be efficiency. You would need a 12v-19v adapter (iGo used to make one for laptops), otherwise you would need a 12vdc-110vac inverter, then use the NUC power bric...

Your R2 unit is big enough, maybe you can use a battery from a UPS. You can start by running your NUC through a Kill-a-watt to read how much AC draw it is pulling. Better yet, just learn Python and switch to a Raspberry Pi. Easy to power, light weight, powerful enough to run all of your functions. A...

Oops. Precaffinated posting. Fixed.

Yes. My son wrote it when he was a senior in high school (v0.3 - 2009). I have taken over the project and added a lot of features and bug fixes since then, along with a contributor somewhere in the eastern US. I have had volunteers releasing the translations. The hardest part of maintaining it, I am...

Here is a headphone stand I did with two separate filaments. The one on the left was using Hatchbox wood filament , the one on the right was using a Coffee filament without any post processing (note that the glitch on the legs was from my printer stopping and manually restarting after editing the gc...

Good video.

I also wanted to say thanks for mentioning Win32DiskImager. I had planned on working on it during my stay-cation this last month, but too many other honey-do's got in the way. Hopefully I can get back to it soon.

On my 3DP-17, this would indicate that the bed is loose. If you can put your hand on the bed and move it around without moving the steppers, you will need to tighten everything.

I should also note that very shortly after I bought it, a Hictop rep posted on facebook offering a gift for people that were buying one. The gift was a replacement print head assembly, along with plugs and wire crimps so that you can easily swap out the print head hot end, sensor and fans without ha...

Not sure, but from what I have heard on the facebook and thingiverse forums about issues people have, I haven't seen any. Other than the wire harness support for the bed heater and wheels for the bed leveling screws, mine is unchanged from factory. I did replace the glass with a mirror, but almost e...

Sounds like you have either a newer or custom built firmware. Where did you get your printer from? There are a lot of companies reselling the CR-10 series, some of them modify the firmware (I have the Hictop version). As to moving the Z axis to clean the heads, you should be able to do that in the P...

The CR10 will work with pretty much anything that can generate GCode for Marlin based printers. Not an Autocad or Inventor user, but if they can slice, you can print. Otherwise you will need to output your models as STL files and run then through a slicer (like Cura). BTW, there is a forum on this b...

You can recenter it by loosening the bracket and adjusting one side vs the other. What it is showing is that your brackets are not 100% square to the channel. Pulling one bracket out just 0.5-1mm will make a massive difference.

And with little to no fanfare, Cura 3.3 was also released. Downloading it now.

Update: And...it crashed on start. Something with converting configs. Will debug later.